The Adventure of Landmannalaugar and Hekla the Volcano

This is our longest day trip, but arguably the most exciting one. We start driving south, and soon we turn into the interior, against the stream of the river Þjorsá. We reach the waterfall Hjalparfoss, a double waterfall that was very appreciated by the horse riders when riding from the north over the Sprengisandur route.

From the waterfall, we venture into the highlands to Landmannalaugar, the day’s highlight. The scenery here is surreal, with colourful hills and peaks, and natural baths with water just hot enough for a soothing dip, so have your swimsuit and a towel ready.

After Landmannalaugar, we head westward through Domadalur valley. Soon we reach the lava fields of Hekla volcano, one of the most active volcanoes in the country. The road will lead us about 1000 m above sea level, where we can enjoy magnificent panoramic views over the surrounding landscapes – if the weather gods permit such a memorable experience.

The valley is around the river Thjorsa, the longest river in Iceland, 230 km long. This glacier river originates in Hofsjokull glacier and empties directly into the ocean. The valley is known for lush vegetation, and the river for numerous islands of various sizes. On the west side of the river the national forestry had planted a large forest. On the east is the lava field Thjorsarhraun, a result of one of the greatest lava flows after the Ice Age. This lava field was formed by very fluid flows from the eruption in the Veidivotn lakes region and it spreads all the way to the coastline.

Hjálparfoss is a beautiful, two-stepped waterfall near the confluence of Rivers Thjorsa and Fossa in the Thjorsa Valley. The surrounding area is called Hjalp (Help) because the travellers across the Sprengisandur Route found great help reaching a vegetated area to graze their horses after a long journey in the barren interior. As elsewhere in the valley, the signs of the eruptions of Mt. Hekla are very prominent by the waterfall, with ashes everywhere.

Now we enter the Fjallabak Nature reserve, protected since 1978. Fjallabak means behind the mountains, or the other side of the mountains, and it is understandable why. Most of the visitors stay at the shore or close to the seaside. The other side welcomes us with colourful landscapes with deep valleys, long rivers and picturesque lakes. The lack of civilisation makes this area stand out even more.

The lava field Laugarhraun was formed by an eruption in 1477. It is a volcanic system of rhyolite that gives the mountains their signature colours. These are caused by the oxidation of iron and the presence of other minerals like sulfur and silica.

The hot pools here have for centuries been a popular place for travellers, seeking a spot to soak and relax after long hikes. Therefore, the place became known as “People’s Pools” – Landmannalaugar.

The valley Domadalur is located just west of Landmannalaugar. It contains small lake, that shrinks in the summer and most of the valley becomes green with vegetation. The name comes likely from juridical assembly (“dom” means “court” in Icelandic) about paternity case between families of the nearby counties. To the west, the valley is filled with obsidian lava field, Domadalshraun. Obsidian is formed from rhyolitic lava flows of high viscosity that cool very fast.